Under Construction
(Apologies, I will finish this page asap, and photos will be included, however training for my first marathon has taken over a bit at the moment!)
Painting Figures
I have been asked many times how I paint my figures, so I thought I'd cover this subject here
Materials
For fine work I cut the outer hairs from the outside of a number 4 brush with a scalpel leaving the centre core which then has a very fine point.
Undercoat is Halfords White Primer in a big spray can.
Paints are a large selection of Matt Humbrols, plus Gloss Humbrol Brown 10, Gold and Silver, and Goldsize Varnish.
The best thinner is genuine turpentine although white spirit can be used. I use kitchen foil to stand the figures on as this cuts down dust, and kitchen roll for wiping brushes.
I usually stick 1/43 or smaller figures to a small styrene base with Uhu or Evostick so it will stand up (this makes it much easier later on and the base can be removed at the end of the process).
I always use margerine or ice cream tub plastic lids as a pallette. It is always a good idea to have a few of these handy. It takes a few seconds to put some paint on the pallette so that the Humbrol tin can be sealed again to avoid the paint in the tin drying out.
Undercoat
Shake the Halfords White Primer for a full two minutes as per the instructions on the can. Spray gently from around 25cm so the figure is covered but not at the expense of filling up the detail. Allow to dry for 2 hours before handling.
Making a start
Make a start by painting the basic flesh colour onto faces, hands and, if necessary, legs, trying not to overlap too far onto other areas.
I have not found a satisfactory flesh colour available in the Humbrol, Revell or similar range of paints. I mix my own using a half full white tin, and adding small amounts of red, blue and yellow paint to create a satisfactory shade. The ideal mix is similar to your own skin, but just a little bit darker.
Once the skin colour is dry (best left overnight, or at least for 3 or four hours), carefully paint in maybe two of the main colours required on the figure allowing the first to dry before adding the next.
Shadowing
I shadow and highlight all of the main colours when I paint figures. This adds a little more realism, but there is a slight knack to it and it takes a little getting used to. I will deal with faces and skin in a separate section.
Make sure you have clean turpentine and a square of kitchen roll laid flat. Use a no. 3 brush with a good point.
To shadow, on the pallette, mix a little black into the main colour you have used. Only trial and error will tell you if you are creating the right shade, and with experience you will make the right choices more often. (Darkening reds with black does not seem to work too well, adding a brick type brown is better).
Paint the darker shade carefully into clothing creases, and any other places you think a shadow should exist on your figure, maybe a thin line around lapels, or the edge of a jacket, or the underside of a skirt.
After this darker colour has dried for 5 or 10 minutes, clean your brush, and remove any excess turps on the kitchen roll. Then, while the brush is still damp, blend all the edges of the darker colour into the original colour. With a bit of practice you should be able to do this neatly.
Highlighting
To highlight the main colours on your figure once again have clean turps handy and a square of kitchen roll laid flat. However this time you will need an old, tatty but clean and dry no. 3 brush.
On the pallette mix your main colour with white to make a lighter shade. The object this time is to 'dry brush' the paint across the area to be highlighted. Pick up some paint from the pallette just on the very ends of the bristles on the brush. Wipe off some of this paint on the kitchen roll before carefully 'flicking' the end of the brush across clothing creases etc. Also pay attention to elbows, knees and shoulders, but try not to overdo it. It is a similar method to how some people 'weather' model locomotives.